CHARLIE the cropped jacket - Sewalong

Our Charlie jacket, it's the utilitarian flight jacket, but our way. Its 100% cozy design is fully lined in sherpa and has a loose cut highlighted by dolman sleeves. You'll also find a cropped length, waist darts, a front zipper closure and chest pockets. However, it is the secret pocket sewn inside which will be practical for storing your phone. The ultimate detail on this jacket is the addition of hook-and-loop closures for a fast slip-on. Wear it casually over a hoodie and a pair of jeans.

NOTIONS:
Jeans needle, all-purpose thread, 1 separating zipper 40cm (16"), zipper foot, 6 hook-and-loop tapes 2.5cm x 3cm (1" x 1 1/4") and topstitch thread (optional).


MAIN FABRIC:
- Denim, twill or velvet
Width: 150cm (59") Length: XXS-M=1.4m (1 5/8yd) L-XL=1.5m (1 3/4yd) 2XL=1.6m (1 7/8yd)
Width: 110cm (43") Length: XXS-S=1.8m (2yd) S-M=1.9m (2 1/8yd) L-XL=2m (2 1/4yd) 2XL= 2.1m (2 3/8yd)


LINING:
- Sherpa
Width: 150cm (59") Length: XXS=1m (1 1/8yd) XS-M=1.1m (1 1/4yd) L-2XL=1.3m (1 3/8yd)

***Note that print matching may require extra fabric!***


BODY MEASUREMENTS (ease not included):

- The bust is measured at the widest part of the chest while taking a deep breath.
- The waist measured at its narrowest part, slightly above the belly button.


FINISHED GARMENT MEASUREMENTS (ease included):



GUIDELINES:
- To choose a size, compare your bust measurement with the BODY MEASUREMENTS table. Do not base yourself on the size you buy in stores.
- If you are between two sizes, opt for the larger one.
- Adjust the pattern at the waist level if your measurement corresponds to a another size than the chosen one.
- The pattern is drafted according to the height of 1m63 (5ft4). If needed, adapt it to your height using the adjustment lines.
- The pattern is drafted according to a B cup size. If needed, adapt it to your cup size using a full bust adjustment.





CUTTING OUT:
1- Before cutting out your fabric, be sure to wash it and press it according to the care instructions recommended for its type.

2- Refer to the cutting layouts to lay the fabrics and cut out the pattern pieces. Then, notch the edge of the fabric where indicated by making small clips of about 2-3mm (1/8"). Notch also the centre back of the pieces that are cut on the fold.

3- Transfer all the markings on the fabric using a tailor's chalk or a vanishing marker.

PATTERN PIECES:
A- Front (x2 fabric + lining)
B- Pocket (x2 fabric)
C- Flap (x2 fabric)
D- Back (x1 fabric + lining)
E- Front sleeve (x2 fabric + lining)
F- Back sleeve (x2 fabric + lining)
G- Internal pocket (x1 fabric)
H- Collar (x1 fabric + lining)
I- Hook (x1 fabric)
J- Front waistband (x2 fabric)
K- Back waistband (x1 fabric)
L- Cuff (x2 fabric)


SEWING INSTRUCTIONS:
***Unless stated otherwise, sew at 1cm (3/8") from the edge.***

1- Fold the fronts with RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER to align the dart notches on top of each other. Then, sew from the notches to the first markings and finish in the fold, next to the second marking.

Do not backstitch in the fold, instead, secure the seam by knotting the thread trails. Press the dart to the centre front.




Edge-stitch the darts.




2- Fold the top edges of the pockets twice. First by 1cm (3/8") and then by 3cm (1 1/4"). Sew the hems in place and press. Then, fold the side and bottom edges of the pockets at 1cm (3/8") to the WRONG SIDE. Press.




Cut the top corners in an angle to remove bulk.




3- Sew a piece of tape, loop side, on the RIGHT SIDE of each pocket. Place as shown on the pattern. Start by edge-stitching one of the long edges.




Then, pivot and sew diagonally across the tape. Pivot and sew the remaining long edge.




Pivot again to sew diagonally across the tape. Then, pivot to sew a short edge.




Finally, pivot twice to sew again the two long edges and the remaining short edge.




4- Pin one pocket to each front, WRONG SIDE against the RIGHT SIDE of the fronts. Match the top edges of the pockets with the pocket markings. Then, edge-stitch the side and bottom edges, making triangle shapes in the top corners. Press the pockets.




5- With WRONG SIDES TOGETHER, fold the flaps lengthwise and sew the short edges. Trim the seam allowances to half. Then, turn the flap to the RIGHT SIDES and bring out the corners. Press the flaps and edge-stitch the finished edges.




6- Attach a piece of tape, hook side, on each flap, following the same method as with the pocket. Attach the tape on the WRONG SIDE of the flap.

With RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER, place one flap on each front, with the raw edges oriented toward the bottom of the garment and 1cm (3/8") below the flap markings. Sew the flaps in place between the markings.




Trim the seam allowances on the flap to half. Then, fold the flaps down and topstitch at 0.6cm (1/4") below the attachment seam. Press.




7- Sew the dart in the back in the same manner as with the front. Press the darts to the centre back.

Edge-stitch the darts.




8- With RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER, sew together the front and back sleeves at the vertical seam. Sew from the head to the notch, leaving an opening in the bottom.




Press the seams open and fold the seam allowances in the openings at 1cm (3/8") to the WRONG SIDE. Press.




9- With RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER, sew the sleeves to the front and back panels. Be sure to place the vertical seam on the sleeves to the back.




Press the seam allowances up and edge-stitch.




10- Place the front and back with RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER, folding the sleeves lengthwise. Then, sew the side and underarm seams. Be sure to align the armhole seams.




11- With RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER, sew the two collar pieces together at the short sides and the long edge. Trim the seam allowances to half and trim the corners to an angle.




Turn the collar to the RIGHT SIDE and bring out the corners. Press the finished edges flat and topstitch.




12- Baste the collar to the neckline, with the fabric side of the collar against the RIGHT SIDE of the garment. Be sure to match the centre back notches and the short edges of the collar with the centre front notches.




13- With WRONG SIDES TOGETHER, fold the hook lengthwise and press. Unfold the hook and fold the long edges at 1cm (3/8") to the WRONG SIDE. Fold the hook again following the crease in the middle. Then, edge-stitch the folded edges.




Baste the hook in place on the neckline by placing the ends at 2.5cm (1") from each side of the centre back notch.




14- Sew the darts on the front and back linings. To remove bulk in the darts, trim them at 0.6cm (1/4") from the sewing line.




15- Fold one long edge on the internal pocket twice. First at 1cm (3/8"), then at 3cm (1 1/4") to the WRONG SIDE and press. Sew the hem in place and press. Then, fold the remaining long edge and the short sides at 1cm (3/8") to the WRONG SIDE and press.




16- Attach a piece of tape, hook side, on the WRONG SIDE of the internal pocket. Place as shown on the pattern.




Sew a piece of tape, loop side, on the RIGHT SIDE of the front. Place as shown on the pattern, on the right-hand side of the garment.




Pin the internal pocket, with its WRONG SIDE against the RIGHT SIDE of the front lining with the tape (right-hand side of the garment). Match the hemmed side with the internal pocket markings. Then, edge-stitch the short sides and the remaining long edge of the pocket, making triangle shapes in the top corners. Press the pocket.




17- With RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER, sew together the front and back sleeve linings at the vertical seam. Sew from the head to the notch, leaving an opening in the bottom. Then, open the seam allowances.




18- With RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER, sew the sleeves to the front and back. Be sure that the vertical seam on the sleeves is placed to the back of the garment. Open the seam allowances.




19- Install the zipper foot and sew one side of the separating zipper to one side of the garment. Be sure that the top and bottom stoppers at placed at 1.5cm (5/8") from the top and bottom edges. Also, fold the top zipper tapes diagonally. Repeat this step with the remaining side of the zipper.




20- With RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER, put the lining over the garment, matching up the neckline and centre front edges. Sew together, catching also the zipper. For this step, the zipper must be unfolded.




To remove bulk, trim the centre front/neckline corners to an angle. Be sure to not cut the zipper tape.




21- Turn the lining inside the garment and bring out the corners and the collar. Then, edge-stitch the centre front edges, catching also the zipper.




22- Roll up the bottom of the sleeve so that WRONG SIDE of the fabric is facing.




With RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER, sew together the sleeve and its lining in the opening left in the bottom. Sew one side at a time, starting from the bottom edge to the notch. Then, turn the sleeve lining back inside the sleeve and repeat this step to the remaining sleeve.




Topstitch the openings. Then, baste the lining and the outer layer in place at the bottom of the sleeves and the garment.




23- With RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER, sew the front and back waistband together at the sides. Trim the seam allowances to half and press the seams open.

With RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER, fold the waistband lengthwise and sew the short sides and the top edge, leaving an opening between the centre front notches. Trim the seam allowances to half and trim the corners to an angle. Clip the seam allowances on each side of the opening and fold one seam allowance on the long edge at 1cm (3/8") to the WRONG SIDE.




Turn the waistband to the RIGHT SIDE and bring out the corners. Press the finished edges flat. Press the waistband.




Then, sew the long edge of the waistband to the bottom of the garment, matching up the side seams and the centre back notches. Sew the RIGHT SIDE of the waistband against the RIGHT SIDE of the lining and be sure that you do not catch the folded seam allowance on the waistband.




To remove bulk, trim the seam allowances of the garment and the lining to half. Do not trim the seam allowance of the waistband.

Fold the waistband down and tuck the seam allowances inside the waistband. Align the folded seam allowance of the waistband with the attachment seam to conceal the stitches and pin in place. Then, edge-stitch all around the waistband. Press.




24- Attach a piece of tape, loop side, to the inner side of the waistband, on the right-hand side of the garment. Then, attach a piece of tape, hook side, to the outer side of the waistband, on the left-hand side of the garment. Place as shown on the pattern.




25- With RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER, fold the cuffs lengthwise and sew the short sides and the top edge, leaving an opening between the notches. Trim the seam allowances to half and trim the corners to an angle. Clip the seam allowances on each side of the opening and fold one seam allowance on the long edge at 1cm (3/8") to the WRONG SIDE.

Then, turn the cuffs to the RIGHT SIDE and bring out the corners. Press the finished edges flat. Press the cuffs.




Sew a cuff to the bottom of each sleeve. Sew with the RIGHT SIDE of the cuff against the RIGHT SIDE of the lining and be sure that you do not catch the folded seam allowance on the cuff.




To remove bulk, trim the seam allowance to half on the garment and the lining only. Do not trim the seam allowance on the cuff. Then, fold the cuffs down and tuck the seam allowances inside the cuff. Align the folded seam allowance of the cuff with the attachment seam to conceal the stitches and pin in place. Then, edge-stitch all around the cuff. Press.




26- Attach a piece of tape, loop side, to the inner side of each cuff, on the side attached to the back sleeve. Then, attach a piece of tape, hook side, to the outer side of each cuff, on the side attached to the front sleeve. Place as shown on the pattern.