JIMMY the T-shirt bodysuit - Sewalong

(Photo credit: The Wardrobe Project)

Our Jimmy bodysuit is a tribute to the iconic white T-shirt made famous in the 1950s. Its design is straight to the point and features a simple crew neckline, short cap sleeves, and a brief cut fastened by snaps. With its relaxed silhouette, the Jimmy bodysuit will look great with your favourite high waist jeans and much more!

 

Sizes: XXS-2XL Difficulty level: beginner to intermediate SEAM ALLOWANCES OF 1CM (3/8") INCLUDED Be sure to check our tutorial for printing and assembling your PDF pattern!

(Photo credit: Tipstitched)


NOTIONS
Stretch needle, all-purpose thread, 2 interfacing pieces 2x3.5cm (3/4x1 3/8"), 2 riveting or sew-on snaps 0.6cm (1/4"), double stretch needle (optional) and textured thread (optional).

Textured thread: a thread made of nylon or polyester. It has more stretch than a regular thread and is suitable for knits. To use this thread, wind it in the bobbin of a sewing machine or the loopers of an overlocker (serger) machine.

FABRIC
- 4-way stretch knit (jersey, interlock) or velvet with SPANDEX
Width: 150cm (59") Length: XXS-M=1m (1 1/8yd )  L-XL=1.1m (1 1/4yd)  2XL=1.2m (1 3/8yd)

***Note that print matching may require extra fabric!***

Your fabric should have at least 50% stretch. Meaning that once the fabric is folded widthwise, a section measuring 10cm (4") can be stretched to 15cm (6") WITH NO RESISTANCE. Otherwise, pick a larger pattern size or a more suitable fabric.

(Photo credit: Laura Molnar)


FINISHED GARMENT MEASUREMENT (ease included)
Torso length: XXS=140.2cm (55 1/4")  XS=143.2cm (56 3/8")  S=146.2cm (57 5/8")  M=149.2cm (58 3/4")  L=152.2cm (60")  XL=155.2cm (61 1/8")  2XL=158.2cm (62 3/8")

Bust circumference: XXS=81cm (31 3/4")  XS=86cm (33 3/4")  S=91cm (35 3/4")  M=96cm (37 3/4")  L=101cm (39 3/4")  XL=106cm (41 3/4")  2XL=111cm (43 3/4")

Waist circumference: XXS=78cm (30 3/4")  XS=83cm (32 3/4")  S=88cm (34 3/4")  M=93cm (36 3/4")  L=98cm (38 3/4")  XL=103cm (40 3/4")  2XL=108cm (42 3/4")

Hips circumference: XXS=75cm (29 1/2")  XS=80cm (31 1/2")  S=85cm (33 1/2")  M=90cm (35 1/2")  L=95cm (37 1/2")  XL=100cm (39 1/2")  2XL=105cm (41 1/2")

Sleeve length: XXS=30.6cm (12") XS=31.8cm (12 1/2") S=33cm (13") M=34.2cm (13 1/2") L=35.4cm (14") XL=36.6cm (14 1/2") 2XL=37.8cm (15")

Biceps circumference: XXS=27.5cm (10 7/8")  XS=29cm (11 1/2")  S=30.5cm (12")  M=32cm (12 5/8")  L=33.5cm  (13 1/4")  XL=35cm (13 7/8")  2XL=36.5cm (14 3/8")

Crotch width: XXS-2XL=4cm (1 5/8")


GUIDELINES
- To choose a size, compare your bust measurement with our sizing chart. Do not base yourself on the size you buy in stores.
- If you are between two sizes, opt for the larger one.
- If your waist and hips circumference corresponds to different sizes, grade between the pattern lines to create a pattern that works for you.
- To adapt the pattern to your height, refer to the torso length, as indicated in our sizing chart. If your measurement does not correspond to the size you chose, slash the pattern along the adjustment lines to lengthen or shorten the length accordingly.
- The pattern is drafted according to a B cup size. If needed, adapt it to your cup size using a full bust adjustment.



(Photo Credit: Valérie Kernen)


CUTTING OUT
1- Before cutting out your fabric, be sure to wash it and press it according to the care instructions recommended for its type.

2- Refer to the cutting layouts to lay the fabrics and cut out the pattern pieces. Then, notch the edge of the fabric where indicated by making small clips of about 2-3mm (1/8"). Notch also the centre back and centre front of the pieces that are cut on the fold.

***Velvet: be sure to lay the pieces over the velvet so that the pile direction runs to the bottom of the garment.***

PATTERN PIECES
A- Front (x1 fabric)
B- Back (x1 fabric)
C- Neckband (x1 fabric)
D- Neck binding (x1 fabric)
E- Sleeve (x2 fabric)
F- Leg band (x2 fabric)


SEWING INSTRUCTIONS
***Unless stated otherwise, sew at 1cm (3/8") from the edge.***

To sew knits with a SEWING MACHINE, use a straight stretch stitch or a very narrow and short zigzag. To edge-finish the seam allowances, sew a second row of stitches close to the first ones, with a regular zigzag stitch. Then, trim the seam allowances close to the second row of stitches. With a 4-THREAD OVERLOCKER  (SERGER), sew and edge-finish at once by placing the left needle marking at 1cm (3/8") from the fabric edge.

1- With RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER, sew together the front (A) and back (B) at the shoulders. Edge-finish the seam allowances and press to the back.




2- With RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER, sew the neckband (C) into a circle by joining the short sides. Then, trim the seam allowances to half and press open.




3- Fold the neckband in half onto itself, with WRONG SIDES TOGETHER, matching up the raw edges and press the fold.


       

4- With RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER, pin the neckband to the neckline, matching up the raw edges of the neckband to the neckline. Note that the fold in the neckband will be facing the bottom of the bodysuit. Then, sew with the band side up, stretching it as you sew to match the corresponding notches. Edge-finish the seam allowances.




5- Fold one long edge of the neck binding (D) at 0.6cm (1/4") and the short sides at 1cm (3/8") to the WRONG SIDE. Press the folded edges.




6- With RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER, pin the binding (D) to the back seam of the neckline, stretching the binding to match up its short sides with the shoulders. Note that the fold in the neckband will be facing the bottom of the bodysuit. Then, sew at 0.6cm (1/4") from the edge, catching also the neckband. 




7- Fold up the neckband (C). Then, fold the binding (D) down to conceal the seam allowances on the back neckline. Pin the binding in place.




8- Edge-stitch the bottom edge of the binding (D), catching also the back (B). Press the neckline.




9- With RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER, sew the front and back of the garment together at the side seams. Edge-finish the seam allowances and press them to the back.




10- With RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER, sew the underarm seam of each sleeve (E). Edge-finish the seam allowances and press them to the front. Turn the sleeves to the RIGHT SIDE.




11- With RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER, thread a sleeve (E) through the corresponding armhole. Pin and sew the sleeve to the body, matching the notches. Then, edge-finish the seam allowances and repeat to the other sleeve. Turn the bodysuit to the RIGHT SIDE.




12- With WRONG SIDES TOGETHER, fold the leg band pieces (F) in half lengthwise and press. Then, with RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER, pin one leg band to the corresponding leg opening, stretching the band to match up the notches. Be sure that the raw edges of the band are lining up with the raw edges of the bodysuit. Sew together with the band facing up.

Edge-finish the seam allowances and press them toward the body, bringing the leg band out. Repeat to the other side.

***If you need to maintain the seam allowances in place, edge-stitch the leg openings with a double needle or a zigzag stitch.***




13- On the WRONG SIDE of the bodysuit, fuse a piece of interfacing flush on the raw edges of each crotch.




14- Edge-finish the front and back crotches and fold them at 1cm (3/8") to the WRONG SIDE. Sew the folded edges in place with a straight stitch. Press.




15- Install three snap fasteners on crotch using your preferred method. Ensure that the front overlaps the back and place the socket (female) snaps on the WRONG SIDE of the FRONT crotch and the stud (male) snaps on the RIGHT SIDE of the BACK crotch.




16- Fold the bottom of the sleeves (E) at 10mm (3/8") to the WRONG SIDE. Then, sew the folded edges in place with a double needle or a zigzag stitch and press.

WELL DONE! You have completed Jimmy! Show us your take on this project using the hashtag #calicotjimmy. If you have any comments or questions, let us know by writing us an email at info@studiocalicot.com.

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