JUNIPER the trousers - Sewalong

(Photo credit: @unptinoiseaurose)

An amalgam of a tailored trousers and a pull-on pants, this design features waist pleats, slash pockets, a tapered leg and an elasticated waistband at the back.

(Photo credit: @suzie_atelier)


Terminology
For a definition of the words ending with an asterisk (*), refer to the "terminology" section of the document "Instructions-A4-Letter.pdf".


Sewalong

Preparations:
1-Fuse* the front waist (F).

2-Stay-stitch* the pocket opening edges on the front pieces (A) and the pocket facings (B).




Waist pleats:
3-Lay the pleat on each front piece (A), from the sides to the center, and baste the pleats in place at the top edges. Press the pleats.




Slash pockets:
4-With WRONG SIDES TOGETHER, sew the pocket facings (B) to the pocket linings (C), at the inner edge. Sew at 0.5 cm (¼”) from the raw edges.




Turn the pieces RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER*, and press the seamed edges flat. Then, sew again at 1 cm (⅜”) of the seamed edges to enclose the allowances* of the first seam. Press.




5-With RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER*, sew the pocket facings (B) to the front pieces (A), at the pocket opening edges. Trim the seam allowances* to half close to the stay-stitches.



6-Under-stitch* the pocket openings and fold the pockets linings to the wrong side of the front pieces. Topstitch* the seamed edges. Then, baste* the pockets in place at the waist and side seams.




Side seams & inseams:
7-With RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER*, sew the front (A) and the back (D) of each leg, at the sides. Then, sew the inseams, stretching the top part of the back to match the front.  Edge-finish the seam allowances* and press to the back.




Crotch:
8-With RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER*, thread one leg inside the other. Then, sew together at the center back and front seams, matching up the inseams.




Mock fly:
9-Edge-finish the curved edge on the mock fly (E). Then, sew the right side of the fly over the wrong side of the left-hand front (A), matching up the center front and top edges. Edge-finish the seam allowances*.




10-With WRONG SIDES TOGETHER, fold the mock fly to the right-hand front and sew in place on the edge of the curved edge. Then, turn the garment to the right side and edge-stitch* the crotch.




Waistband:
11-With RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER*, sew together the front (F) and back waist (G), at the short sides. Trim the seam allowances* to half and press open.




12-With WRONG SIDES TOGETHER, fold the band onto itself and press the folded edge. Unfold the waistband.




13-Place the right side of the waistband over the wrong side of the garment. Then sew one long edge of the band to the top edges of the garment, matching up the corresponding notches and seams.




14-Fold the waistband up. Then, fold the second long edge of the band at 1 cm (⅜") to the wrong side and press.




15-On the right side of the garment, fold the waistband along the crease in the middle. Pin the bottom edge of the back waist (G) over the attachment seam to conceal the stitches. Then, sew the back waist in place by edge-stitching the bottom edge, from one side seam to the other. Do not sew the front waist yet.




Elastic in the waistband:
16-Attach a safety pin to one end of the knitted elastic and insert it inside the back waist (G) through one side.




17-Slide the elastic to the other side until it is 1 cm (⅜”) past the side seam. Remove the safety pin and secure the elastic by sewing in the ditch the side seam.




Then, secure the other end of the elastic in the same manner. Stretch the back waist a few times to distribute the gathers evenly.




18-Sew the elastic in place by topstitching* in the middle of the back waistband width. Be sure to stretch the waistband as you sew, in front and behind the presser foot, to remove any creases in the fabric.




19-On the right side of the garment, pin the bottom edge of the front waist (F) over the attachment seam to conceal the stitches. Then, sew the front waistband in place by edge-stitching the bottom edge, from one side seam to the other.




Belt loops:
20-With RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER*, fold the belt loop pieces (H) lengthwise and sew at 1 cm (⅜") from the folded edges, leaving long thread trails at the end of the seam. Then, trim the seam allowances* to half.




21-Pick one belt loop and thread a hand sewing needle or a safety pin to the thread trail left at the end of the seam.




Then, insert the needle inside the loop and slide it through to the other end by gathering the fabric. While holding the needle, pull the loop until its right side is out. Repeat this step with the other loop.




22-Press the belt loop pieces so that the seam is positioned in the middle of the width. Then, cut each belt loop three times to obtain six belt loops, each measuring 8 cm (3 ¼").




23-Pin the belt loops on the waistband so that the bottom end of the loops are 1 cm (⅜”) below the top edge of the waistband. Place two loops at 5 cm (2") from the center front, then two on the back at 2.5 cm (1") from the side seams and the last two pieces at 2.5 cm (1") from the center back. Note that the seam on the loops should be facing up.




Then, sew the belt loops in place close to the waistband top edge.



   
24-Fold the loops down and fold the remaining ends under at 1 cm (⅜"). Sew in place on the edge of the folded ends.




Hem:
25-Fold the bottom edge of each leg twice at 1 cm (⅜”) to the wrong side. Sew the folded edges in place and press the hems.

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