NICO the blazer - Sewalong

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(Photo credit: Isabelle By-Isco)

While designing our blazer Nico, we have let ourselves be influenced by the second-hand markets by incorporating vintage-inspired elements. This piece features a lapel collar with a notch placed very low and a fitted cut with princess seams. However, what makes all its charm, are its pleated and puffed sleeves giving it an offbeat and original look. With its cropped silhouette, Nico will suit high waist jeans and bodysuits for a more casual look.

 

Sizes: XS-XL
Difficulty level: intermediate to expert
SEAM ALLOWANCES OF 1CM (3/8") INCLUDED

Be sure to check our tutorial for printing and assembling your PDF pattern!




(Photo credit: No Aime Coudre)


NOTIONS
Universal needle, all-purpose thread, 1 button 2.5cm (1") and seam roll (optional).


FABRIC
- Stretch suitings (gabardine, wool, crêpe...) or stretch velvet, twill and denim
Width: 150cm (59") Length: XS-M=1.6m (1 3/4yd )  L-XL=1.7m (1 7/8yd)
Width: 110cm (43") Length: XS-M=2m (2 1/4yd)  L-XL=2.1m (2 3/8yd)


LINING
- Viscose or polyester lining
Width: 150cm (59") Length: XS-L=1m (1 1/8yd)  XL=1.1m (1 1/4yd)
Width: 110cm (43") Length: XS-L=1.2m (1 3/8yd)  XL=1.3m (1 1/2yd)


INTERFACING
Width: 90cm (35") Length: XS-XL=0.9m (1yd)

***Note that print matching may require extra fabric!***



(Photo credit: Un Pti Noiseau Rose)


FINISHED GARMENT MEASUREMENT (ease included)
Bust: XS=91.5cm (36")  S=96.5cm (38")  M=101.5m (40")  L=106.5cm (42")  XL= 111.5cm (44")

Waist: XS=73.5cm (29")  S=78.5cm (31")  M=83.5cm (33")  L=88.5cm (35")  XL=
93.5cm (37")

Length: XS=54.8cm (21 5/8")  S=55.4cm (21 7/8")  M=56cm (22 1/8")  L=56.6cm (22 3/8")  XL=57.2cm (22 5/8")


GUIDELINES
- To choose a size, compare your bust measurement with our sizing chart. Do not base yourself on the size you buy in stores.
- If you are between two sizes, opt for the larger one.
- Adjust the pattern at the waist level if your measurement corresponds to another size than the chosen one.
- The pattern is drafted according to the height of 1m63 (5ft4). If needed, adapt it to your height using the adjustment lines.
- The pattern is drafted according to a B cup size. If needed, adapt it to your cup size using a full bust adjustment.



(Photo Credit: Manon Cornet)


CUTTING OUT
1- Before cutting out your fabric, be sure to wash it and press it according to the care instructions recommended for its type.

2- Refer to the cutting layouts to lay the fabrics and cut out the pattern pieces. Then, notch the edge of the fabric where indicated by making small clips of about 2-3mm (1/8"). Notch also the centre back of the pieces that are cut on the fold.

3- Transfer all the markings on the fabric using a tailor's chalk or a vanishing marker.

 ***Velvet: be sure to lay the pieces over the velvet so that the pile direction runs to the bottom of the garment.***






PATTERN PIECES
A- Side front (x2 fabric)
B- Centre front (x2 fabric)
C- Side back (x2 fabric)
D- Centre back (x1 fabric)
E- Upper sleeve (x2 fabric)
F- Under sleeve (x2 fabric)
G- Front lining (x1 lining)
H- Front facing (x2 fabric + interfacing)
I- Back lining (x1 lining)
J- Back facing (x1 fabric + interfacing)
K- Sleeve lining (x2 lining)
L- Collar (x2 fabric + 1x interfacing)


SEWING INSTRUCTIONS
***Unless stated otherwise, sew at 1cm (3/8") from the edge.***

1- With RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER, sew the side fronts (A) to the centre fronts (B), at the princess seam, matching up the corresponding notches.




2- Press the princess seams open, clipping the allowances in the curved section.




3- With RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER, sew the side backs (C) to the centre back (D), at the princess seams, matching up the corresponding notches. Then, press the seams open, clipping the allowances in the curved section.




4- Before assembling the front and the back, fold the bottom edges of the side fronts (A), side backs (C) and the centre back (D) at 2cm (3/4") to the WRONG SIDE. Press and Unfold. Then, with RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER, sew the front and back of the garment at the shoulder and side seams.




5- Clip the side seam allowances in the fold line (2cm or 3/4" from the bottom edges), just to the sewing line. However, be sure that you don't cut through the stitches. Then, press the side seams and the shoulder seams open.




6- Lay four pleats on each upper sleeve (E) by matching up the pleat markings in the sleeve heads. Fold each pleat from the middle of the sleeve toward the sides. Then, baste the pleats in place.




7- Fold the bottom edges of the upper (E) and under sleeves (F) at 2cm (3/4") to the WRONG SIDE. Press and unfold. Then, with RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER, sew the under sleeves (F) to the upper sleeve (E), at the hind seam (back), matching up the corresponding notches.




8- With RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER, sew the under sleeves (F) to the upper sleeves (E), at the fore seam (front), matching up the corresponding notches.




9- Press the hind and fore seams open, using a seam roll. Turn the sleeves to the RIGHT SIDE.




10- With RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER, thread the sleeves through the armholes and sew together. First, be sure to align the notch in the middle of the undersleeve (F) with the side seams and the notch in the middle of the upper sleeve with the shoulders. Then, match up the remaining notches and the round markings on the armholes with the sleeve pleats. Turn the garment to the RIGHT SIDE.




11- With RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER, sew the front linings (G) to the front facings (H), at the princess seam. Match up the corresponding notches and sew together. Press the seams open, clipping through the allowances in the curved sections.




12- With RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER, fold the back lining (I) so that the dart notches on the bottom edge are on top of each other. Then, start sewing from the notches to the first dart markings and finish in the fold, according to the second dart marking. Press the darts toward the centre back.




13- Lay the pleat on the back lining (I), by matching up the centre back notches on the neckline. The pleat can be oriented toward either side. Baste the pleat in place.




14- With RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER, sew the bottom of the back facing (J) to the back lining, matching up the centre back notch with the pleat.




15- Press the seams open, clipping the allowances in the curved sections.




16- With RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER, sew the front and the back of the lining together at the shoulders. Be sure to match up the attachment seams of the facings. Then, press the seams open.




17- With RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER, sew the front and back of the lining together at the sides, leaving an opening of about 10cm (4") on one of the side seams. Then, press the seams open and fold the seam allowances in the opening at 1cm (3/8") to the WRONG SIDE.


18- With RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER, fold the sleeve lining (K) so that the dart notches on the side are on top of each other. Then, start sewing from the notches and finish in the fold, according to the dart marking. Press the darts toward the bottom of the sleeve.




19- With RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER, fold one sleeve lining (K) lengthwise and sew together the underarm seams. Repeat the step with the second sleeve. Then, press the seams open, using a seam roll. Turn the sleeve linings to the RIGHT SIDE.




20- With RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER, thread the sleeve linings (K) through the armholes of the lining and sew together, matching up the corresponding notches. Be sure to align the side seams with the underarm seams.




21- With RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER, pin the collar (L) with fusing to the neckline edges. Start by matching up the centre front notches. Then, match the centre back notches and the shoulder notches. Sew between the centre front notches. Following the same manner, sew the remaining collar (L) to the lining.




22- Press the seams open, clipping the allowances in the curved sections.




23- With RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER, sew the two collars (L) together at the short sides and top edge, starting and ending on the attachment seam of the neckline. Be sure that all the seam allowances are facing down so you do not catch them while sewing. Trim the seam allowances to half and the corners to an angle.




24- With RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER, sew the centre fronts (B) and the front facings (H) together, between the centre front notch and the bottom of the garment. Be sure that all the seam allowances are facing up so you do not catch them while sewing. Then, Trim the seam allowances to half and the corners to an angle. Do not sew the bottom edges of the garment yet!




25- With RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER, pull the lining down so that the bottom edges of the lining and the outer layer meet. Pin together, matching up the corresponding seams and notches.

**Note that the front lining (G) should gradually meet the outer layer.**



26- Sew the centre fronts (B) and front facings (H) together at the bottom edge. To do so, be sure that the centre front seam allowances are folded toward the facing and sew between the centre front and princess seam. Sew the remaining of the bottom edges together. Note that the section on the front lining (G) should be sewn at 1cm (3/8") from the lining edge, not the outer layer edge.




27- Through the opening left in the lining, fold the facing and lining inside the garment. Bring out all the corners and press all the seamed edges flat.




28- Fold the lower edges of the garment following the creases made previously.




29- Pin one sleeve and its lining together at the bottom edge. Ensure that the underarm seam of the sleeve lining (K) is aligned with the notch on the under sleeve (F). Then, take them out through the opening left in the lining. Remove the pins and place the sleeve and its lining so that the bottom edges meet with RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER. Pin again the sleeve and the lining together along the bottom edges, making sure that all the corresponding seams and notches are aligned.




30- Sew the bottom edges together.




31- Pull the sleeve out so that it's RIGHT SIDE up again. The, repeat the steps 29, 30 and 31 to sew the second sleeve.




32- Fold the lower edges of the sleeve following the crease made previously.




33- Thread a hand sewing needle and close the opening left in the lining by sewing a slip stitch by hand.  




34- Sew one button on the left-hand front, according to the pattern symbol. Then, following your preferred method, make one horizontal buttonhole on the right-hand front, according to the pattern symbol. Open the buttonhole with a seam ripper or a buttonhole cutter.



WELL DONE!
You have completed Nico! Show us your take on this project using the hashtag #calicotnico.

If you have any comments or questions, let us know by writing us an email at info@studiocalicot.com.

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