RACHEL the slim pants - Sewalong

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(Photo credit: @xanniebelle)

A simple pair of pants drafted for stretch denim featuring back pockets and a side zipper. Its high rise drops into a v-shape at the front, revealing the belly button.

Get your copy, measurements and required material for this project here!



(Photo credit: Sandra Reinartz)

Terminology
For a definition of the words ending with an asterisk (*), refer to the "terminology" section of the document "Instructions-A4-Letter.pdf".


Sewalong
Unless stated otherwise, sew at 1 cm (⅜") from the edge.

To edge-finish with a SEWING MACHINE, sew with a zigzag stitch over the edge of the fabric to prevent fraying.

To edge-finish with a 3-THREADS OVERLOCKER (SERGER), sew by placing the edge of the fabric close to the knife. 


Preparations:
1-Fuse* the front (D) and back facing (E). Then, fuse the stay-tapes on the side seam allowances* of the left-hand front (A) and back pieces (B). Place the tapes between the zip marking and the top edge, at 0.3cm (⅛”) of the fabric edges.



Waist darts:
2-With RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER*, fold the front (A) pieces to match up the dart notches on the top edge. Then, start sewing from the notches and finish in the fold, next to the dart marking.

Tip: do not backstitch in the fold of the fabric. Instead, knot the thread trails that are left at the end of the seam.




Press the darts to the centre and repeat the step with the back pieces (B).




3-Before you continue sewing, stay-stitch* the top edges on the front and back of both legs.




Pockets:
4-Fold the top edge of the pockets (C) twice at 1 cm (⅜"). Sew the folded edges in place and press the hems.




5-Fold the side and bottom edges of the pockets at 1 cm (⅜”) to the wrong side. Press the folds. If needed, cut the top corners in an angle to remove bulk.




6-Pin the wrong side of the pockets (C) to the right side of the back pieces (B), according to the pocket markings. Edge-stitch* the side and bottom edges. Add a second row of stitches at 0.5 cm (¼”) from the first ones.




Invisible zipper:
7-Edge-finish the sides on the front and back of both legs.

8-Open the invisible zipper and with the zipper pull against the right side of the fabric, pin the zipper to the front of the left-hand side leg, at the side seam. Be sure to place the top stopper at 1.5 cm (⅝″) below the top edge and the teeth at 1 cm (⅜″) from the side edge.

9-Install the invisible zipper foot and sew close to the zipper teeth by inserting them inside the grove of the zipper foot. Sew between the top edge and the zip marking.



10-Using the same method, sew the other side of the zipper to the back of the left-hand side leg. Close the zipper.



Side seams:
11-With RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER*, sew the front and back of the right-hand leg at the side seams.




Then, install the zipper foot and sew together the front and back of the left-hand side leg between the bottom of the leg and the zipper marking. Press the seams open.




Inseams:
12-With RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER*, sew the front and back of each leg at the inseams. Edge-finish the seam allowances* and press the seams open.




Crotch:
13-With RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER*, thread one leg inside the other. Sew together at the center front and back seams, matching up the inseams. Then, edge-finish the seam allowances* together and press to the right-hand side of the garment.




14-Turn the garment to the right side and edge-stitch* the crotch.




Facing:
15-With RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER*, sew the front (D) and back facing (E) at the right-hand side seam. Edge-finish the seam allowances* and press the seams open. Then, edge-finish the left-hand side seam allowances of the facing.




16-Fold the bottom edges of the facing at 1 cm (⅜") to the wrong side. Press the fold.




17-Open the zipper. Then, sew the facing to the garment, at the left-hand side seams. Be sure to sew with the zipper unfolded and use a 0.6 cm (¼”) seam allowance*.




18-Fold the zipper seam allowances* toward the facing. Then, sew the facing and the garment together at the top edges, matching up the corresponding seams and notches. Be sure to sew over the folded seam allowances.




19-Trim the seam allowances* to half and clip the center front corner just to the seam line. Then, under-stitch* the facing, by starting and ending the seam as close as possible from the zipper.

20-Fold the facing inside the garment and bring out the corners. Then, press the finished edges and pin the facing in place.




21-Edge-stitch* the bottom edge of the facing. Start and end at 0.3 cm (⅛”) from the zipper teeth.




Hem:
22-Fold the bottom edge of each leg twice at 1 cm (⅜") to the wrong side.




Then, sew the folded edges in place and press the hems.



 WELL DONE!
You have completed Rachel! Show us your take on this project using the hashtag #calicotrachel.

If you have any comments or questions, let us know by writing us an email at info@studiocalicot.com. 

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