TEGAN the jumpsuit - Sewalong
A laid-back jumpsuit made in jersey with a waist drawstring and a dropped crotch. The design features also pockets inserted in the side seams.
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Terminology
For a definition of the words ending with an asterisk (*), refer to the "terminology" section of the document "Instructions-A4-Letter.pdf".
Sewalong
| Unless stated otherwise, sew at 1 cm (⅜") from the edge. To sew knits with a SEWING MACHINE, use a straight stretch stitch or a very narrow and short zigzag. To edge-finish the seam allowances, sew a second row of stitches close to the first ones, with a regular zigzag stitch. Then, trim the seam allowances close to the second row of stitches. With a 4-THREAD OVERLOCKER (SERGER), sew and edge-finish at once by placing the left needle marking at 1cm (⅜”) from the fabric edge. |
Shoulders & side seams:
1-With RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER*, sew the front (A) and the back bodices (B) together at the shoulders and side seams. Edge-finish the seam allowances* and press to the back. Turn the bodice to the right side.
Neckband:
2-With RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER*, sew the neckband (C) into a circle by joining the short sides. Then, trim the seam allowances* to half and press open. 
3-Fold the neckband (C) in half onto itself, with WRONG SIDES TOGETHER, matching up the raw edges and press the fold.
4-With RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER*, pin the neckband (C) to the neckline, matching up the raw edges of the neckband to the raw edges of the neckline. Note that the fold in the neckband will be facing the bottom of the bodysuit. Then, sew with the band side up, stretching it as you sew to match the corresponding notches. 
5-Edge-finish the seam allowances* and press them down to bring out the neckband (C).
Armholes:
6-With RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER*, sew each armhole band (D) into a circle by joining the short sides. Then, trim the seam allowances* to half and press open. 
7-Fold each armhole band in half onto itself, with WRONG SIDES TOGETHER, matching up the raw edges and press the fold.
8-With RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER*, pin one armhole band (D) to the corresponding armhole, matching up the raw edges of the band to the raw edges of the armhole. Note that the fold in the band will be facing the body. Then, sew with the band side up, stretching it as you sew to match the corresponding notches. Repeat on the other side with the remaining band.
9-Edge-finish the seam allowances* and press toward the body to bring out the armhole bands (D).
Side pockets:
10-With RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER*, sew one pair of pocket lining (E) to a pair of leg (F), at the side seams. Be sure to sew between the notches. Then, clip the notches just to the sewing line. Be sure not to cut through the stitches.
11-Fold the pocket linings (E) to the wrong side of the legs (F) and press the seamed edges. 
12-With RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER*, sew the remaining pair of pocket linings (E) over the first ones, at the inner edge. Then, edge-finish the seam allowances*. Baste* the pocket linings in place at the side and waist seams. Note that there should be a gap of 2 cm (¾”) between the waist edges of the pockets and leg. 
Gussets & legs:
13-With RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER*, sew each side of one gusset (G) to the legs with the pocket linings. Edge-finish the seam allowances* and press the seams to the sides. 
14-Fuse* a small interfacing piece to the gusset (G), around the eyelet placement. Then, following your preferred method, install the eyelets over the gusset, according to the pattern symbols.
15-With RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER*, sew each side of the remaining gusset (G) to the remaining pair of legs (F). Edge-finish the seam allowances* and press to the sides.
16-To maintain the seam allowances* in place, edge-stitch* the neckline, armhole and gusset seams with a double needle or a zigzag stitch (optional).
Side seams & inseams:
17-With RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER*, sew the front and back of the pants together at the sides. Around the pocket opening level, be sure to catch only the rear of the pockets, not the seamed edges. Then, edge-finish the seam allowances* and press to the back.
18-With RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER*, sew the front and back legs and gussets together at the inseam. Be sure to line up the gusset seams. Then, edge-finish the seam allowances* and press to the back. Turn the pants to the right side.
Waist drawstring:
19-With RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER*, sew the bottom of the bodice to the top edges of the pants. Be sure to place the gusset with eyelets to the front of the garment. Sew with a seam allowance of 2 cm (¾”).
20-Press the seam allowances* down and fold up the bodice. Then, sew the seam allowances in place by topstitching* at 1.5 cm (⅝”) below the waist seam. Be sure to also catch the pocket linings (E).
Hem:
21-Fold the bottom edge of each leg at 2 cm (¾”) to the wrong side. Then, sew the folded edges in place with a double needle or a zigzag stitch. Press the hems.
Cord:
22-Finish the garment by threading the cord in the waist drawstring through one eyelet and bring out to the other side. If wished, embellish the cord thread with aglets or cord stoppers and knot the ends. 
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WELL DONE! You have completed Tegan! Show us your take on this project using the hashtag #calicottegan. If you have any comments or questions, let us know by writing us an email at info@studiocalicot.com. |