Lining tutorial J006 Parka - Part 2

Click here for the first part of this tutorial!

CONSTRUCTION
You will not need to edge-finish. When assembling the lining parts, open all seams. If your lining is rather thick, make your hems by folding first at 6 mm and then at 18 mm to widen the passage. Otherwise, the cord will not slide through the hems. If you do this, you will need to shift the buttonhole position on the hood by 3 mm towards the back center.

STEP BY STEP
1- Assemble the outer layer of the garment by following steps 1 to 4 and then skip the 5. Do not stitch down the back black. Next, follow steps 6 through 12. Be careful not to make the hem at the hood. Reminder: shift the buttonhole placement by 3 mm toward the center back if using a thick lining. Do not attach the hood to the garment yet.

2- Assemble the back, front and sleeve lining following steps 4, 6, 7, 8 and 9, without topstitching, and open the seams. Assemble the hood following step 11, always without topstitching and open the seams.

3- Fold the zipper tapes diagonally over the top stops. Next, place the zip to right side of front pieces, along the centre front edges. Br sure that the top stoppers are 20 mm from the neckline edge. Read the tip included in step 17 to match the waist fold on each side of the zip. ** Note: I used a shorter zip so the bottom stoppers does not match with the bottom of the lining. However, this will not be the case if you are using a 65 cm zip.



4- Wrong sides together, place the hood lining over the hood with a 25 mm offset between the lining and the hood on the side that will be hemmed. Be sure to match the bottom edges and the cutting seams.





5- Baste with long stitches at 5 mm from the top of the hem allowance. Do not follow this step with coated fabrics because the needle can leave holes on these types of fabrics.



6- Then, on the right right of the hood, stitch down the hems at 3 mm from the long stitches. Unpick the long stitches.



7- Attach the lined hood to the garment neckline by following step 13. Ignore step 14.



8- With right sides together, place the lining over the garment and match up the center front and neck edges. The hood must face down. Begin by stitching the neckline edges together with a 12 mm seam allowance and then trim to half the lining seam allowance only to remove some bulk.



9- Before stitching the center front, make sure there is a 25 mm offset between the bottom of the lining and the garment.



Then stitch the center front with your zipper foot to stitch 3 mm of the slides. Before turning the garment over, make sure that the upper corners are properly angled.



10- Turn the garment to the right side.



11- Starting from the bottom of the garment, topstitch at about 6 mm from one side of the center front. When you reach the neckline, with the needle down, pivot the garment and continue stitching along the neckline. Pivot to the remaining side of the center front when reaching it and finish to bottom of garment. If the color of your lining is different from the outer layer, consider using a matching thread for the bobbin!



12- Stitch the lining to the garment on each side of the slit  by stitching from marking 1 to the bottom of the lining. Make sure there is a 25 mm offset between the bottom of the lining and the garment.





13- On the right side of the garment, topstitch at about 6 mm from the slit.



14- Turn the garment to the wrong side. Before making the hem at the bottom of the garment, be sure there is a 25 mm offset between the bottom of the lining and the garment. Fold  the hem and pin down using the same method as shown on the hood.



15- Make the hems at the bottom of the sleeves, always making sure there is a 25 mm offset between the bottom of the lining and the garment. Match up also the underarm seam.



16- Follow step 16 to thread the cords in the hood and bottom of the garment.



Here I used another method for the bottom. I did not cut the cord in half and threaded one end from one side of the centre front to the other to create a loop under the slit.





Do not hesitate to leave a comment if you have questions!