SW604 Sewalong - Part 1

Our pattern collection is getting bigger with the addition of a fall essential - the sweatshirt. Its classic design features ribbed cuffs, an insert at the neckline and a zippered pocket on the sleeve. It can be made with a thick and fluid knit such as sweater knit or French terry. Its fit is rather loose and it can be layered with other garments to create many different looks.

For the occasion of the pattern release, we propose a detailed and illustrated sewalong to walk you through making the sweatshirt. The sewalong will be divided into three parts and will be published between October 7th and 9th.

October 7th: introduction, choosing the size, preparations, materials and cutting out.
October 8th: construction of the sleeve pocket and the insert.
October 9th: Assembling the bodice (shoulders, laterals and sleeves) and attaching the ribbed bands.

Now let's begin...

The sweat being rather loose, choosing its size will be easy. If your measurements are not all in the same size or in between two, choose the largest size. The ease added to the bus girth is of 15 cm.

Print and assemble your pattern. Then you can cut directly into the pattern board or trace the pattern in the desired size. If your height is less than 1m63 or more than 1m74, we recommend adjusting the pattern length to preserve the proportions of the garment. The approximate length of the sweatshirt is 61.5 cm.

Opt for a thick and fluid knit such as sweater knit or French terry. Avoid woven fabrics or thin knits. Double knits are very thick but lack of fluidity, so they are not recommended.

For the ribbed bands, choose a very elastic rib knit. Sometimes it is difficult to match the rib with another fabric so choosing a contrasting color is an interesting alternative. If using a knit with a print, match the rib with a color featured in the print to make it stand out. The yardage of each fabric is provided with the pattern.

An all purpose thread and a universal needle will do, however, do not hesitate to use a stretch needle is you have one to hand.

To make the zippered pocket, you will need a zip foot and a closed-end zipper of 10 cm long. Indeed, this length can be difficult to find in store, however, it is possible to readjust the length of a zip by removing the upper stops, then the teeth, in order to get the right length. To do so, have a pair of pliers to hand and protect your eyes. Then, cut away the excess of tape and burn the tips to prevent fraying.

Then you will need stay tape to stabilize the pocket openings. If you do not have this item, an interfacing cut into 12 mm strips will do. You will need a strip of about 25 cm.

The zigzag foot and topstitch foot are not mandatory, but can be useful when topstitching, so feel free to use if you have them to hand.

Before cutting out the fabrics, be sure to machine clean and dry them according to your liking. Then, set your iron at medium temperature press the fabrics to remove any creases.

Next, use the cutting layouts provided with the pattern to arrange the pieces on the fabric. Note that the insert (piece 4) must be cut once in the rib knit. Same for the pocket pieces  (pieces 1 & 2) cut in the sweater knit.

Before removing the pattern, be sure to notch the edge of the fabric as indicated, and mark the pocket placement on the left sleeve. The left sleeve is the one that covers the left arm when the garment is worn.

Next, mark the insert placement on the front piece neckline.

Finally, fuse the stay tape on the pocket openings, as indicated on the pattern, to the WRONG SIDE of the fabric (pieces 1 & 2).