T005 Pockets, plackets & hems

Today we are going to sew the pockets with flaps, make bar-tacks, assemble the front placket and make the bottom hems. The sewing instructions are taken from the pattern, but I added some of my personal notes. If you have any question, you can contact me at info@kommatiapatterns.com or in the comment section below!

Back to the intro page here.


Unless stated otherwise, stitch at 12mm (½") from the edge and match notches and markings with the same numbers.

Assemble RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER, namely by placing the right side of a piece against the right side of another one – the right side being the side showing when the garment is worn.

STAY-STITCH: stitch at 3mm (⅛") from the seam line, in the seam allowance.
BAR TACK: stitch with a closely set and narrow zigzag for about 10mm (⅜") to strengthen a seam.

Hem the top edge of the pockets by folding it in twice at 15mm (⅝"). Stitch down the hems and press. Fold in the remaining side and bottom edges of pockets by 12mm (½") and press. Place the pockets to RIGHT SIDE of front panels, according to placement, and topstitch close to the side and bottom edges.

Fold the flaps lengthwise, RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER, and stitch the short sides. Trim the seam allowances to half and turn flaps inside out. Press and EDGE-STITCH the side and folded edges. Then, place the flaps above the pockets, with the raw edges at 12mm (½") below the flap placement line. Stitch the flaps at 12mm (½") from the raw edges and trim the seam allowances to half. Fold down the flaps on the stitching line and topstitch at 6mm (¼") below the fold.

Add vertical BAR-TACKS to the pockets top corners and horizontal BAR-TACKS on top corners of the flaps. **Use a scrap of fabric to test the width, length and tension. I like to use 2mm x 0.6mm settings for the zigzag. To make even bar-tacks, mark the 1cm section with a chalk or fabric marker.

Fold the plackets lengthwise on ➊, RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER, and stitch the lower edge. Turn the plackets to right side and press. Then, fold and press the long edge sticking out on each placket at 6mm (¼"), WRONG SIDES TOGETHER. **Here I drew the step because I had to modify the pattern as I was sewing. I thought that the seams were very thick in this area so I removed 12mm off the placket pattern on one side. This is why you'll see a 12mm shift between the placket long edges once folded.

Stitch the plackets to the front pieces, matching up the bottom edges with ➋. To do so, shift the front pieces edge to align it with the edge folded in. Stitch down the plackets seam allowance to the front pieces at 2mm (⅛") from the folded edges. Then, make a second row of stitches at 2mm (⅛") from the seam line. **I topstitched using a topstitch foot to help me guide the fabric close to the edges.

Hem the bottom of the front and back pieces by folding in twice at 6mm (¼"). Stitch down the hems.

Back to the intro page here.