T005 Side seam, cuff & button

This is the final part of the sewalong and we will assemble the side seams, sew the insert each side of the hem and add the buttonholes and buttons. The sewing instructions are taken from the pattern, but I added some of my personal notes. If you have any question, you can contact me at info@kommatiapatterns.com or in the comment section below!

Back to the intro page here.

Unless stated otherwise, stitch at 12mm (½") from the edge and match notches and markings with the same numbers.

Assemble RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER, namely by placing the right side of a piece against the right side of another one – the right side being the side showing when the garment is worn.

STAY-STITCH: stitch at 3mm (⅛") from the seam line, in the seam allowance.
BAR TACK: stitch with a closely set and narrow zigzag for about 10mm (⅜") to strengthen a seam.

Fold and press to RIGHT SIDE the underarm and side edges of the FRONT part of the garment only. Then, stitch together the front and back of the garment. To do so, shift the back edges to align them with the edges folded in at the front. Stitch down the front seam allowances to the back at 2mm (⅛") from the folded edges. Then, make a second row of stitches at 2mm (⅛") from the seam line. ** When it's time to stitch down the seam allowances, be sure to start at the bottom of the garment, not the sleeve. The sleeve is too narrow at the bottom and it will be impossible to start from there.

Fold cuff pieces lengthwise, RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER, and stitch the short sides from ➒ to folded edges. Notch the seam allowances on each side of the opening and fold in one of its seam allowance on each cuff. Trim the seam allowances by half along the stitches and turn cuffs to RIGHT SIDE. Press. **Before doing so, be sure that interfacing was added to the cuffs around the button and buttonhole area.

Stitch the cuffs to WRONG SIDE of sleeves by matching up ➒ with the sleeve plackets. Then, line up the folded edge on the cuffs with the stitching line. Topstitch around the cuffs.

Fold in and press the seam allowances around the insert (12mm-½") and fold them again in two. Press the fold and place the inserts in the bottom of the side seams, to the WRONG side of the garment. Stitch the inserts in place over the hem stitches. **  LEFT SIDE: I started by folding in two opposite sides, then folded in the remaining edges. I was working with a thick fabric so I trimmed to an angle each end of the last folded edges. It helped to remove bulk, but if you are working with a thin fabric you might not need to do so. RIGHT SIDE: I stitched the sides together once the inserts were folded. I thought it was much easier to stitch the inserts to the garment that way.

WITH BUTTONS: Stitch buttonholes on the placket, to the right side of the garment and to one side of each cuff opening. Thread a hand sewing needle and install the buttons on the placket, to left side and on remaining side of each cuff opening. To do so, use the buttonhole and button placement of the pattern pieces.

** Here I will show you how you can draw the placement without the pattern. To do so, you need to have a well sharpen or precise fabric marking tool. I used a chalk so I shave the sides using a scissor (not the ones I cut fabric, of course) to make the sides thinner.

First, draw a vertical line along the centre of the placket width. Be sure to extend this line to the top of the collar stand. Then, draw a horizontal line at each end of the collar stand, along the centre of the collar stand height. Start the buttonholes on the collar stand by following the horizontal line, starting at 3mm from the vertical line toward the outside.

Then, draw five horizontal lines below the one on the collar stand, always with a 9.5cm spacing in between them. Start your buttonholes at 3mm below each horizontal line, along the vertical line along the placket width.

The buttonhole length is determined by a simple formula : button diameter + 3mm. However, some buttonhole feet are equipped with an attachment where you can put your button and it will automatically set a buttonhole width accordingly. Be sure you read your sewing machine manual if you are not sure how to operate the buttonhole foot.

For the buttons, draw the lines in the same manner, however the buttons must be placed exactly where the lines meet (see below for pictures). I recommend making the buttonholes first because it's much easier to unpick the buttons and replace them in case each side do not line up exactly with the buttonholes.

** Here I drew a horizontal line along the centre of the cuff height and a vertical one below the folded edge on the sleeve placket. Start your buttonhole 3mm outside the vertical line. For the button, draw the lines in the same manner on the other side of the opening and install it where the lines are crossing.

**To open the buttonholes, use a seam ripper with two needles placed at each end of the buttonhole. These will stop the seam ripper and prevent you going further out. 

** Here I used my sewing machine to install the button. To do, you must set your sewing machine to a zigzag stitch. Measure the distance between the small holes inside the button and use this measurement to set the zigzag width. Then, lower the feed dogs or cover them with a darning plate. Place the button and shirt under the sewing foot (my sewing machine has a foot just for installing button, however, I believe you can do this with a regular or zigzag foot) and match up the needle with one button hole. Use the balance wheel to check that the needle is lined up correctly with both buttons. Then, press on the pedal to produce a vertical stitch and only release it once the movement was repeated at least 10 times.

WITH SNAPS: Install the snaps as instructed by the maker using solely the button placement of the pattern pieces. ** Here you will use the same method as mentioned above to trace the placement lines. However, you will only need to place the snaps where the lines meet.

I hope you like this sewalong! Do not hesitate to ask any questions in the comment section below. Show us your work on social media using the hashtag #T005!